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Beyond the shade

The world of hair colours is beyond blonde, brown or blue. BENAIFER J. MIRZA lets you in on different types of hair colours, the effect they render et al.

Broadly speaking, there are four kinds of hair colours — permanent, demi-permanent, semi-permanent and temporary. Read on to know more about these colours, their care routine, etc.

Permanent colours

Permanent colours are the most commonly-used colours, thanks to their effect and long-lasting result. They penetrate the hair shaft and deposit colour directly on its cortex. The formula contains a developer to raise the cuticle and allows the colour molecules to enter the cortex. It also contains aniline derivatives that combine with hydrogen peroxide to produce larger tint molecules, which are then trapped inside the cortex.

She added, “Hair colouring techniques, such as using foils, Balayage and Ombre, can be done most effectively with permanent colours, as the results achieved with these colours are more striking and visible.”
While permanent colours are able to deposit hues, they can also be used to lighten the shade of the hair – it all depends on the strength of the hydrogen peroxide used as a developer.

Seema Jerajani, Creative Director and Proprietor, Fusions Salon, noted, “People have a misconception that with permanent colours, their hair will be coloured permanently. It’s important to know that the new growth will be grey or whatever the natural shade of the hair is. The colour will be permanent only on the lengths where it has been applied. These also fade over a period of time, maybe six months or so, and need refreshing.”

She added, “Hair colouring techniques, such as using foils, Balayage and Ombre, can be done most effectively with permanent colours, as the results achieved with these colours are more striking and visible.”

Semi- and demi-permanent colours

In semi-permanent colours, the colour is deposited onto the hair, albeit without any lightening effect. The formula includes an activator that develops the colour and helps to raise the cuticle of the hair shaft, allowing the colour to be deposited there. Semi-permanent colour does not enter the cortex of the hair and gradually fades out with each shampoo. It also adds shine to the tresses. Seema said, “Ammonia-free, semipermanent colours usually comprise vibrant and dramatic fashion colours— anything from turquoise blue, fuschia and violet to shades of reds and orange. The hair is pre-lightened or bleached, and then colour is applied. Such colours can be easily and safely applied at home as well. Get pre-lightening done professionally and you can always apply these colours yourself, as they don’t need to be mixed with peroxide. What’s more, one can change the colour frequently.” On the other hand, demi-permanent hair colour, also a deposit-only colour without any lightening effect, is a permanent hair colour that contains an alkaline agent other than ammonia.

Seema explained, “While both these colours are more or less similar in the way they work, they are a little different in their formulation. In India, demipermanent colours are used more frequently as compared to semipermanent ones.” She continued, “There are different categories in semi-permanent colours as well, and these could last between 4-10 or 10-20 shampoos. They add sheen to the hair, but don’t completely cover grey strands. On the other hand, demi-permanent colours are a better choice for covering grey hair, and withstand 20-28 washes.”

The difference between semi- and demi-permanent colours is that with the latter, the colour molecules are smaller and, therefore, penetrate into the cortex of the hair, and also get deposited on and into the cuticle. This makes it a better choice for covering grey hair. The colour lasts longer, but gradually fades due to the formulation of smaller colour molecules that return through the cuticle with each shampoo.

Temporary colours

These colours do not penetrate the cuticle layer, and simply add colour to the surface of the hair. While they last between 1-3 shampoos, they are a quick and convenient way of wearing an interesting and dramatic shade or streak as and when you’re in the mood for one. Apart from the temporary colours that last for a few shampoos, you also have hair mascaras, mousse and sprays that can be easily applied or sprayed on and don’t need any prelightening or bleaching. They last until you shampoo your hair.

Fact check

Simii Keer, National Technical and Academy Manager, L’Oréal Professionnel, clarified, “Even though it is still not a big market in Asia, while speaking of colours, it is important to mention a little about bleaching. It is a technical tool that can have two purposes. If the client wants a light colour at a level that is not possible to reach with any oxidative hair colour, that is if she either wants a very blonde shade, or a colour that may not be too light, but she has very coarse hair. In both these cases, bleaching has to be followed by the application of a non-lightening oxidative colour. The other purpose would be if the client wants highlights or any other light, partial colour. In this scenario, while it is not compulsory to follow the bleaching action by another colour, it would be better to do the same.”

Which is the best for me?

Simii noted, “It is very important to consult an experienced stylist or expert before going in for any sort of hair colouring. Proper professional advice is a must.” Seema added, “Firstly, it depends on the requirement of the client — on whether she is looking at covering grey hair or is colouring simply for style. Secondly, things such as the age of the client and sensitivity of the scalp play a very important role in deciding, which method would be ideal for her.”

According to Simii, permanent colour is most popular thanks to the various bold as well as subtle effects and results it can deliver. “Today, many youngsters prefer coloured hair extensions over colouring their hair. Coloured extensions are a quick way to get that pink or green streak in your hair. One of the best things about extensions, of course, is that the commitment towards a colour care routine is almost zero,” concluded Seema.

Colour care

Simii said, “Coloured hair must be washed with colour protection shampoos and conditioners. These products protect the hair and colour from natural oxidation. A good homecare routine helps in maintaining the longevity and condition of the colour.”