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Are you waiting for the summers to refill your supply of sunscreen lotions? If you are happy with the fact that winter has set in, don’t be complacent, yet. Time and again, science has proved that the effects of UV rays, even via indoor tanning, are extremely harmful to the skin. Believe it or not, UV radiation can pass through clothing, windshields, windows and even clouds!

Avni Amlani, Education Director, Dermalogica India, says, “UV rays not only contribute to sun tan, pigmentation and ageing, but can also cause skin melanoma. Science has shown that a sunburn doubles the risk of melanoma. In fact, the biggest culprit for premature ageing, also known as photoageing, is UV exposure. Approximately 90 per cent of premature ageing is thanks to UV rays.”

The tan story

Avni explains, “Following the initial erythema or sunburn, the skin responds by proliferating cell production and producing melanin, which gives the appearance of a tan; this is a protective function of the skin.

When skin is exposed to UV radiation, the immediate response makes the melanocyte to push melanosomes towards the surrounding cells. As a result, skin becomes darker and the tanning process occurs. The formation of skin pigment or melanin is to protect the skin and body from the negative influence of intensive sun irradiation. The melanin pigments filter the UV rays of the sunlight and, thus, prevent damage to the deeper skin layers. However, this process can often go wrong when the skin has been exposed to a lot of sunlight, and the result will be either hyper or hypo pigmentation.”

She continues, “Sun tan can be in the form of sun damage, pigmentation and age spots. While we start noticing age spots around the age of 40, the truth is that they’ve probably been developing for the past 30 years. Age spots, often called sun spots, are the result of years of cumulative sun exposure.

“Pigmentation or sun tan can be deep or superficial, depending on how much the skin has been exposed to UV rays. Very often, it is difficult to treat deep pigmentation completely. Also, the results take longer to show as compared to that of a superficial tan.”

She recommends exfoliation, use of skin brightening products, undergoing treatments that will help improve the skin’s condition, and using a sunscreen.

Skin saviour

Sunscreens are one of the best ways to protect the skin from any sort of tanning and the various ill-effects of the sun. Avni shares that sunscreens work by two mechanisms — the chemical sunscreens absorb the UV rays, thereby lowering the energy level and releasing energy as heat, and the physical ones reflect or scatter the energy rays; they are non-chemical and, therefore, less irritating. Some formulations can have a combination of both these technologies.”

She advises, “Sunscreen should be applied before any foundation or make-up. It should be applied at least 20 minutes before stepping out in the sun, and re-applied every time you step out (again 15-20 minutes before). It can be removed with a cleanser. If the foundation or tinted moisturiser contains SPF, it needs to be cleansed with a make-up remover.” Remember to avoid fragrance in sunscreens, as it can be photo-toxic and can cause a reaction or pigmentation problems.

Seasons in the sun

If you thought that summer is the only time to apply a sunscreen, think again! Avni shares something interesting, “Snow reflects up to 90 per cent of the sun’s rays. Winter sun can cause sunburn and damage to your skin just as much as the summer sun. “Cloudy days may make the air cooler, but UV rays still pass through clouds. The risk of sun damage is even greater at higher altitudes, where there is lesser atmosphere blocking the sun’s rays. UV radiation increases by 4-5 per cent with every 1,000 feet above sea level. Skiers, hikers, and those living at high elevations need total protection.”

Better safe than sorry

Apart from applying sunscreen, things such as wearing shades and UV protective clothing, avoiding UV exposure between noon and 4 p.m. can help guard your skin further. She advises, “Coupled with a yearly skin examination by a doctor, self-examination of the skin once a month is the best way to detect early warning signs of carcinomas and malignant melanoma. If there’s a new growth or any skin change, consult a professional skin expert immediately.”