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Canopy Capers

Whether as a faithful sunshade or loyal rain shelter, the humble umbrella has put on a whole lot of attitude, finds ELIZABETH S., and has also had a facelift as the new fashion accessory.
The basic design of the umbrella is so close to perfect that it has gone through little tampering for centuries.
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Four years ago, a singer used an iconic prop in her music video; she danced and swayed with a classic black one lovingly crooning, ‘Umbrella, ella ella ella’. While the track brought the bob-haired songstress Rihanna soaring sales, her co-dancer in the video, the umbrella, has been a much loved (and widely used) hit for ages.

Unfolding history

Nobody knows the exact rainy or sunny day that the umbrella — also known as the parasol, bumbershoot or brolly — came to be. But history is full of references to the umbrella and its ancestral versions. The umbrella has its origins in the parasol, as the need for protection against the sun was regarded more highly than the need to protect oneself from rain! The first records of parasols can be found from carvings (around four thousand years ago) that depict Egyptian nobility carrying parasols. Although there are no definite records, the first collapsible umbrella was probably made in China and dates as far back as A.D. 21. In China, paper parasols where used to shield the royals against the sun. For protection against rain, the parasols were waxed and lacquered to make them waterproof. The Chinese parasol travelled through the silk route to other parts of Asia, such as Japan, where it became a complementary accessory to the kimono.

Parasols were a common fashion accessory in ancient Greece in the late 5th century B.C. but their use was restricted to clergymen belonging to the Roman Catholic Church. Indian and Burmese kings were known to use chhaatas while perched atop elephants and horses and were thus titled "Chhatrapati". The use of the parasol as a sartorial accompaniment began around the 16th century in Portugal and other European countries.

It was the French who popularised the use of the parasol as a fashion accessory. The stylish mademoiselle in France would not be spotted without her parasol, many a time matching it with her gloves, shoes and fan. In England, the parasol made an appearance around the 17th century and was mostly used by women. It was around this time that the difference between the parasol and the umbrella became clearly demarcated. Parasols were used for protection against the sun and were often made of cloth. The function of the brolly, however, was to shelter mankind from the rain gods! From silk and cotton to PVC and nylon, the evolution of umbrellas has seen the use of numerous materials and varying styles.
 
Brollying up Hollywood

With the 20th century, the umbrella diminished in status as a fashion accessory, but continued to make appearances in pop culture, especially in movies, where it lent an element of romance. The image that instantly springs to the mind is that of Gene Kelly, Debbie Reynolds and Donald O’Connor on the poster of Singin' in the Rain or the magical umbrella Julie Andrews uses to glide down in Mary Poppins! The brolly also appears all ammo-ed up in the hands of the Penguin in Batman Returns, and who can forget Scarlett Johansson behind a clear umbrella in Lost in Translation?

Rainy red carpet events are another good place to spot celebrity umbrellas. Last year’s Golden Globes saw many A-listers under the protection of the rain guard, so much so that the umbrella was praised by trend spotters as the new clutch. While Cameron Diaz walked with a red and white Beverly Hills Hilton umbrella that matched her scarlet gown, Tina Fey flaunted a blue umbrella and Penelope Cruz matched her gown with a classic black umbrella.

Covering the catwalks

The umbrella’s moments of fame don’t end with the movies. Being indispensable in its utility, even exalted fashion houses have made sure the umbrella is included in their portfolio so that the glitterati don't make any fashion faux paus on a rainy day. In 1979, Gia Carangi appeared in an unforgettable black and white Dior ad flaunting a Christian Dior umbrella. Burberry's signature checkered designs have graced their umbrella line as well. Chanel, Fendi, Louis Vuitton all have their own range of signature styles in umbrellas. Naomi Campbell strutted down the runway with an Anna Sui floral blue and white umbrella while Marc Jacobs gave the umbrella a fun and playful makeover. Alexander McQueen adorned his models with handsfree chic umbrellas and, more recently, French umbrella label Guy de Jean took a little help from some of France’s leading designers Jean Paul Gaultier and Chantal Thomass to give umbrellas a fashion overhaul. The result was a range of colourful, quirky and undeniably feminine umbrellas inspired by lingerie and corsets!

The design of the basic umbrella is so close to perfect that it has gone through little tampering for centuries. However, with textures, patterns and experimental combinations, the umbrella worldwide is regaining its reputation as a must-flaunt accessory.

Shaded style

In India, the umbrella has still not garnered the momentum as a fashion accessory. With so much sun and a rather generous monsoon, it’s needless to say that the potential to experiment is limitless. Even if you go wrong, you can be sure you’ll be protected, come rain or sunshine!

READY TO UMBRELLA, ELLA, ELLA?

Besides protecting your skin from the harsh summer sun and guarding us from torrential downpours, the umbrella can also add a bit of drama to your outfit. Be imaginative and exploit this nifty accessory in these different ways:

Safe solids Go monochromatic in shades of red, blue or deep purple for the rainy season and opt for big bold umbrellas!

Rainbow effect It must rain for you to see a rainbow; so arm yourself with one of those huge, spacious rainbow umbrellas with wooden handles.

Go cute If the sun’s shining mellow, try cutesy patterned parasols; whether it’s the polka dotted ones or even those in summer shades such as lemon green or yellow.

Drama up On your next trip to South East Asia, make sure you have enough space for a nice silk parasol with oriental motifs and pair it with a silk gown.

Stay chic If you don’t want to experiment and yet wish to stay stylish with your choice of brolly, go haute couture with a designer umbrella! Flaunt your Fs from Fendi or LVs from Louis Vuitton and get noticed!