HAIR | Your Complete Guide To Great Hair And Beauty

The delicate yellow flowers of Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis) resemble primroses. They bloom after sundown and fade away in the sunlight. Ergo the name — even though the Evening Primrose does not belong to the Primrose family. Alluding to the gentle sunny appearance of its flowers, the plant is also called sundrop and suncup.

A wildflower indigenous to North America, the roots and seeds of Evening Primrose were long used for fostering wellness by American Indians. As awareness of its efficacy spread, Evening Primrose was introduced in Europe and oil extracted from its seeds came to be blended in skin and haircare formulations as well as taken as oral supplements prescribed under medical advice. Its tiny seeds yield oil of immense benefit; while the quantity of oil depends on the extraction process, an estimated 5,000 seeds are pressed to obtain 500 ml of oil. Although the plant is not indigenous to India, the wellness benefits of Evening Primrose Oil (EPO) have created an awareness and demand for it.

Packing a punch

"Evening Primrose Oil, best extracted using the cold pressed method, contains essential fatty acids and is rich in amino acids, vitamins and minerals, which are beneficial for the skin and hair. Because of its anti-inflammatory and anti-irritation effects, it has been used to treat eruptive conditions and also scalp conditions such as psoriasis," says skin expert Shahnaz Husain, adding that for a condition such as scalp psoriasis, EPO should be used in consultation with a dermatologist. "In the West, it was used to treat particular scalp disorders by herbalists. It is an emollient and, therefore, has nourishing and softening qualities due to which it is added to hair conditioners."

"Evening Primrose Oil has GLA (gamma linoleic acid), an essential fatty acid that is beneficial in treating hair loss and brittle nails, eczema, premenstrual syndrome and a variety of other ailments. It can also help treat scalp and hair conditions," says Dr. Priya Peethambar, Spa Manager, Trident, Nariman Point, Mumbai. She adds that the oil is particularly helpful in treating hair loss caused due to hypothyroidism.

Topical application

Experts suggest EPO is best applied topically and gently massaged into the scalp to nourish the hair follicles. "Whatever the reason may be for hair loss, EPO can be used to stop it. On applying it topically, it provides direct nourishment to the scalp; promotes blood flow, which is very useful for the hair follicles. It also hydrates, smoothens and strengthens the hair. EPO has the ability to dilute the sebum that is secreted from the skin and scalp, thus the pores have less chance to get blocked, thereby reducing occurrence of pimples, acne or lesion," says Charvi Gupta, Vice-President, Lotus Herbals.

Under medical advice, EPO capsules may be prescribed for skin, hair and health care. However, these supplements are not advised for pregnant and nursing women, and for those who have certain health conditions such as epilepsy. It can thin the blood, so, those taking a blood thinner need to consult their doctor before taking EPO supplements.

As every individual reacts differently to the active ingredients of any herb, the effect of EPO depends upon a person’s genetic make-up and lifestyle. "One cannot rely solely on EPO for hair growth/scalp care. As hair is made out of keratin, a good protein intake is the best option for hair loss. EPO should be blended with vitamin E in a topical application or in a supplement to prevent GLA from oxidising into something harmful. Vitamin E also has nourishing properties, so it enhances the effect of EPO," advises Dr. Peethambar.

A balanced diet, topical application of a nourishing oil such as EPO and regular haircare go a long way in ensuring healthy hair.